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Cooling a loft conversion: the options that work

A converted loft is the hottest room in most Dartford houses: it sits under the roof, takes the sun from both sides and has no wall thick enough to slow the heat. This guide covers why, what the free measures achieve, and how a wall unit goes in on a dormer or a gable with the outdoor unit two floors down.

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Why does a loft room overheat more than a bedroom below it?

Because the roof is its wall. A 2019 study by researchers at UCL found converted lofts in about 10.8% of London dwellings and in 5.8% of dwellings across England, and found that they carry a substantially higher risk of overheating than the rooms beneath. Heat comes through the roof covering and the dormer cheeks all afternoon, the Velux windows add solar gain, and warm air from the rest of the house rises up the stairs. Source: Li, Taylor and Symonds.

What should you try before buying anything?

Shade and night air. The UCL loft study measured a 96% reduction in overheating from external shutters and 89% from opening windows at night, and once capital and running costs were weighed, night ventilation gave the best value of anything tested. External blinds on roof windows, a reflective film, and opening the loft and a ground-floor window after dark so the house breathes, all cost a fraction of a unit. Where they are not enough, or where the windows cannot be left open, air conditioning takes over. Source: Li, Taylor and Symonds.

Where does the indoor unit go in a loft?

On the gable end if there is one, or on a dormer cheek, as high as the sloping ceiling allows. The unit needs a few centimetres of clearance above it and a flat vertical surface behind it, which rules out most of the sloping ceiling. A floor-standing console on a knee wall is the alternative in a room with no gable and no dormer. The condensate drain needs a fall, which is usually easy from a loft.

Where does the outdoor unit go, and how do the pipes reach it?

At the back, two storeys down. The pipes run down the rear wall in trunking, or inside a boxed-in corner of a bedroom below, to an outdoor unit on the ground or on a bracket at first-floor height. A long vertical run is not a problem for the refrigerant, within the limits of the unit, but it is labour, and the price reflects it. On a semi or a terrace the outdoor unit is the house's one permitted unit, so a family wanting the loft and a bedroom done usually ends up with a multi-split. Source: Planning Portal.

Does a loft unit need any extra permission?

No more than any other: the permitted development conditions apply to the outdoor unit, not to where the indoor one is. Two things are worth checking, though. A loft conversion done under a planning permission may carry conditions, and in one of Dartford's conservation areas the outdoor unit still has to stay off the road-facing wall and roof. Our air conditioning in Dartford page lists the areas. Sources: Planning Portal; Dartford Borough Council.

Questions people ask

Will it heat the loft in winter too?

Yes, a reversible unit will, which is useful in a loft at the far end of the radiator circuit.

What size for a loft bedroom?

Start from the size guide and add for the roof and the glass. A loft of 15 square metres often needs what a 20 or 25 square metre bedroom would.

Can the pipes go through the eaves instead?

Sometimes, into an outdoor unit on a flat roof below, at least a metre in from the edge. The route is settled at the survey.

Sources we checked

Worth knowing before you ring

With these we can usually tell you on the first call whether the job is simple.

  • The postcode
  • Whether it is a house, a flat or business premises, and roughly its age
  • If you rent or lease, who owns the external wall
  • Which room, how big, and the direction its window faces
  • Any management company, conservation area or listing that applies
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